Like grant proposals through the hands of USAID, these are the projects of my life!

Peace Corps Response 2011-2012
Peace Corps Response 2010-2011
University for Peace! 2008-2009
Supercross08! 2008
Peace Corps! 2005-2007

An obligatory disclaimer: Everything I have written, has been written by me. All of my own views, expressed hereinafter, are my own views. If you needed to read this disclaimer to know these things, you're a silly goose!

Monday, March 17, 2008

What?!? Are you Syria!?!

I had thought that no country could compete with the hospitality and friendliness of Egypt. I was wrong. Syria impressed me beyond words in every possible way! Perhaps it's because main-stream tourism has not made it here to corrupt the local culure. Despite the media's best efforts, I felt extremely safe and genuinely welcomed everywhere we went!

Team Awesome arrived to Damascus without a hitch and found ourselves a hotel near the center. It's a big city, with lots happening in every direction. We explored the old town around the market place and Omayyad Mosque. Ancient streets ran this way and that - each offering something else to explore. There was so much character to this thriving town, and it gave off a vibe of unmatched friendliness that put us at ease and opened a lot of doors to really see the culture!

Omayyad Mosque was my favorite! The courtyard was filled with families, children, and friends. It was like an extremely crowded park of picnickers, only these people had come to pray and be social. Kids ran and played, women talked about whatever women talk about, and men walked arm in arm - a show of friendship and affection. It was peace in the very definition of the term.



I was inside the mosque and an old man spotted me taking pictures. He waved me over to him where he sat with his grandchildren. He motioned to me that he wanted me to take a picture of him with the two young ones. I obliged and they went rigid in pose. After taking their picture, I showed them the back screen of my camera so they could see the image. He motioned that he wanted a copy of the picture. I asked if he had an email address, thinking "email" was a pretty universal word, and he nodded yes. I opened my notebook and pointed to another email address to make sure he understood and then pointed below it and handed him my notebook and pen to get his address. He signed it, thinking I wanted his autograph! It was all I could do to not bust up laughing, but I persisted in trying to communicate with him despite his lack of understanding English and my lack of understanding Arabic. No use. I thanked him for the picture as well as the autograph and bid him farewell.

I have to admit, I was quite nervous about coming to Syria. After all, I read the news. I hear things like Syria supports Hammas' and Hezbollah's ambitions of destroying Israel. I'm aware that the United States is one of Israel's only friends. I can see that the U.S. is the only nation that supports Israel's brutal and condemning policies towards Palestinians. I know that my president, as embarrassing as he is, called Syria a rogue state and invaded a neighboring country with unclear and debated motivations, which destabilized the entire region to a degree that even my mathematical skills can't seem to calculate. And worst of all, I know that my passport, with a picture inside of it of my beautiful, smiling face connects me to all those negative and appalling things! I can see quite clearly the logic that citizens of this particular region of the globe are angry with citizens from the state responsible for supporting such heinous negativity. Thing is, I didn't encounter any major hostility at all!

Take away the bad politics - which seem to be managed (or mismanaged if you prefer) by the few - and you have a clear picture of the humanity that is the Syrian people. Likewise, the American people. Seeing and showing these pictures was a great and growing experience for me, and my traveling companions! Nearly every smile I gave was returned. Syrians, even upon hearing that we were American, welcomed us to their country and asked how they could help us, if we needed help.

If politicians truly represented the people they govern, the reflection of those peoples' cultures and courtesies could end all conflict! The source of conflict, I'm convinced, is in the misunderstanding of the two or more conflicting parties. Though perhaps it's not so simple? Perhaps there are other dynamics that play significant roles in inequality issues inhibiting peace? Perhaps age old conflicts with forgotten reasons still provide fodder for fantastic feats of foolishness? Or perhaps we should simply try a little harder to understand who these different people are - and investigate whether or not they're even that different at all. We set out to learn of one group who had this exact purpose to their being!

Up in the desert mountains outside a tiny town called Nebek, exists a Catholic Monastery devoted to bridging the gap between Christians and Muslims. In 1982, Padre Paolo, a Jesuit Monk, was assigned to the Deir Mar Musa Monastery. His assignment: "Harmony building". He prefers that term as it is more holistic than "dialogue". His priorities were:

  1. A spiritual life.

  2. Social responsibility and environmental awareness.

  3. Hospitality.

With these goals, he set in motion events that have built this monastery into the beacon of peace, and indeed 'harmony building' that it is today.

The monastery was first constructed in the 6th century, but was in disrepair when he arrived. In 1984 he began a series of summer youth camps to rebuild and expand the capacity of the building. By 1991, he and a staff of volunteers were able to permanently reside at the monastery.


Padre Paolo focuses on similarities between religions to connect the misunderstood gap between practitioners. He said that monastic life is understood by Muslims, and he emphasizes the commonalities - prayer and worship. Conversely, he said asking questions like, "Why did God create Muslims?" helps to address a perspective that Christians can identify with. He continued in saying that, "In the Bible and the Koran, many true things are named in different ways. The question is needed - how is the other, part of my own system?" The connections he drew were that Muslims accept Jesus as a prophet but deny he died on the cross. He asked if that could be interpreted in a different way, and answered, "Yes!" which can open the mind through different interpretations.

He closed our discussion with, "We are a little cell in a big work that is in the Middle Ages, culturally and spiritually. We need to convince the young people to stay on your aim, despite the contradictions around you."

I don't necessarily agree with his religion, but I was extremely impressed with his methods for peace and harmony building! He's found his true niche, one at which he is exceedingly excelling! He said that every Friday (Islamic day of worship) Muslims flood the monastery grounds for a relaxing picnic and worship. He has open and free dialogue with everyone who visits, giving him loads of opportunity to bridge the gap between Muslims and Christians - and he capitalizes on every one of those opportunities!

Now then, if only we could get Padre Paolo to run for office!

Thursday, March 13, 2008

How 'bout "Jordan" for a Title?!

While waiting for a ferry from Egypt to Jordan, we began a couple new friendships with other travelers heading in the same direction. Of course the primary objective of our project is to make connections with local people, but it's been quite insightful to speak with other travelers on things to look out for. And so we plunged into the Middle East as a group of Americans, seven strong!

On our way to the ferry, we met Danielle, a gal from California who just quit her fancy pants corporate job to explore the world and learn a bit about herself. She hasn't left our side, and has been very welcomed company along our journey.


On the ferry, we connected with the Chang Gang, a mother and her three boys who are taking 8 months to explore the world and incorporate what they learn into their education. Denise (Mom, a teacher), Josh (16), Steve (14), and Ben (11) were a bundle of different kinds of energy and a true inspiration! The kids are still enrolled in school and receive homework from their teachers. Moreover, their classes back home have incorporated the Chang Gang's trip into the curriculum, using their eyes to relate the parts of the world they're encountering back to the classroom! How's that for alternative education?!

We stuck together like glue, and called ourselves Team Awesome! Our first mission was to explore Petra. We spent a full day walking through the old, abandoned city turned tourist attraction and one of the seven modern wonders of the world! We explored caves, talked about our life experiences, marveled at how nature had created such a beautiful place and man had manipulated it in such a fantastic way, and tried our best to control our shock at how magnificent a site Petra truly is! We returned to our hotel, exhausted... but not too tired to gorge ourselves on a delicious Jordanian feast and enjoy each other's company for a bit longer.


In the morning, we set out for Amman, the capital. The Chang Gang had a couple homework days scheduled so they retreated to a hotel to complete existing assignments, coordinate with teachers back home, and read up on their next sites. While they worked, Tim, D, and I met up with our couch surfing host, John. He's a British fellow who's been living in different countries for past years in two year stints with English teaching contracts. We had some fantastic conversations on what he's learned in the world, and his perspective on the way things are.

We learned the state of things in Jordan through John's eyes. We dearly wanted to set up a discussion group to talk about the Israeli/Palestinian/Arab conflict and then contrast it with a similar discussion in Israel, but John said it was such a sensitive topic it would be dangerous to bring it up. We learned this to be more or less true in talking to the few locals that we did indeed connect with. It seemed most of the people in Jordan were not Jordanian. They were displaced Palestinians, local Palestinians, displaced Iraqis, Kuwaitis, and loads of Egyptians. And even though the Egyptians come here looking for work, there exists a 40% unemployment rate! But apparently not all of this is from lack of available work. Life is expensive in Jordan - the Jordan Dinar is stronger than the U.S. Dollar, even though that doesn't say much these days. Despite the high cost of living, people seemed generally happy. They were even pretty welcoming to the fact that we were Americans in their country.

While John was at work, we took a day trip to the Dead Sea - the lowest point on Earth! It's 420 meters below sea level! The lowest point on the surface of the Earth! In case it's not part of your common knowledge - the Dead Sea is A TRIP! It's a big ole lake between Jordan and Israel that has such a high salt concentration that nothing can live in it! So the water is crystal clear, very stingy, and people are abnormally buoyant in it! I performed all kinds of scientific tests on it! Such as:

  • How far can a person walk into the water before floating? Before the water passes your shoulders!
  • How long can I keep my body vertical while floating? Not long! It was tough to keep my feet from floating to the top!
  • How far out of the water can a person float horizontally? 'Bout half way.
  • Can a person swim down below the surface of the water? This test was inconclusive because when I tried I found out that the water burns my eyes more than any other chemical burn I've ever felt. When I asked if Tim and D saw me go below the water, they laughed and told me my ass never made it below the surface... I was crying, but not because they had hurt my feelings. It was because I couldn't wipe the salt from my eyes. I cursed my positive buoyancy while I ran for the showers on the beach.
  • How bad does the salt water sting a person’s eyes? Very bad! Ouch! It stung my tongue too!

At the beach were a couple of pools filled with fresh water. The water was very refreshing, but I felt like I was an awkward rock with limbs trying to swim. I pretty much went straight to the bottom. No more cursing my positive buoyancy skills!

We also tried out the natural skin cleansing and enrichment of Dead Sea mud. It just seemed like hippie cosmetics to me, and it smelled like sewage... hippies...

We hitched a ride back to Amman and met up with the Chang Gang for Steve's 14th birthday party! It was a night of celebration and future planning! We discussed how we were going to get into Syria. Problem is that Syria requires a visa to enter, and the only way to obtain a visa was to go to a Syrian embassy in our country of residence. Well none of us were going to fly home to jump through those hoops so we just went straight to the border, smiled as big as we could, used our cutest Arabic, were the least obnoxious we could have been, and waited. And waited. Our other Peace Corps friends had tried this maneuver before - one pair had to wait 10 hours, the other guy was temporarily detained and questioned in a holding cell!

In just a hair under 3.5 hours at the border we were welcomed kindly into Syria - a characteristic which proved prominent of this misunderstood nation.