I went to work early thinking I would simply invite people for a drink after work to say goodbye. Well, I learned that they were closing the library early on my last day so everyone could go out to lunch! I couldn't believe they were actually closing the library to say goodbye to me! I had no idea that I had made such an impact on these people! And it felt so, so special! Come lunch, everyone congregated near the exit and I was on cloud 9! I was lost in thought, trying to think of things to say and how to express my deep gratitude! All the different connections I had made with people, the moments we'd shared, the friendships we'd found; it was all so great – and so unfortunate to be ending. I hate saying goodbye. I told my counterpart that I couldn't believe that they were closing the library and she said, “We always close the library and go to lunch on International Women's Day.”
Crap.
Well, I certainly let my ego run away with itself on that one... Once I realized the focus was not on me, but on all the women of the library, I relaxed a bit. We went to lunch and made toasts to women and celebrated their existence. Women, after all, are pretty neat! But then, they shocked me and made a big speech about how much they enjoyed me! I tried to reciprocate but I was lost for words. I was pretty surprised at how much they did for me. “Don't you remember your arrival?” my counterpart asked. She was right. They did a ton of wonderful things for me even before they knew me! It has all been so very flattering, and I wish I was able to express exactly how much I appreciate them. This really has been a wonderful experience!
None of the following were eventful enough to fill an entire post, but they're definitely worth sharring. So enjoy some bits and pieces of these short 3.5 months.
I keep hearing that the economic crisis didn't hit Bulgaria as hard as the rest of the world because its society hasn't switched to a credit based society like in the States. Then I heard another explanation that was pretty interesting. "Bulgaria's economy has been in a crisis for 20 years. If that's all we know, why should this new crisis affect us any differently?" It was another sobering reminder of how good we have things in the states - even with an economic crisis.
I got a big piece of redemption over dinner with my former colleagues in Varna. It was like old times, meeting up and cooking a big feast; eating and drinking the night away. I learned that my former counterpart has been working with several other organizations on a really, really big project and he said he owed it all to me! He was referring to an older project that he didn't want to do because he was ashamed of his English. I spent weeks trying to manipulate him into going - saying at the very least, it was a free vacation! He ended up going and presenting very well - so well that they're still working together!
I was working out with a guy who used to break peoples' legs for defaulting on mafia loans. He was telling me that there were some gypsy guys in the gym and that they were less than people. "They look like people, but they're not." I responded with, "Man, that's a lot of hate..." and let it be for the moment. Later in the workout, I couldn't get passed my 5th rep on one exercise and said that's all I've got, and he told me I was being too negative.
I was collecting recipes from the landlord's wife. Her daughter was translating everything for me. One of the ingredients was aspirin. She stopped translating for a second, looked up and asked, "Do you have aspirin in the US?" Don't know which is funnier - her question or that aspirin is an ingredient!On the topic of food, my landlord told me, "It's one thing to have sex with a man, and it's another thing to use a vibrator." He continued by encouraging me to make all my own food for at least a year so I could know the difference.
There are two large windows that get opened in the library every day for ventilation. It makes me crazy because I'm here for energy efficiency and environmental education - focusing primarily on how to heat the building. When I asked why they were opened daily, I was told that it was for ventilation. Okay, I understand this, but offered that during the winter I think it would be adequate to only leave them open once a week. The response: "No. Some of the people that come here don't bathe enough."
A young girl waited for me outside the library one night because she wanted to practice her English. This is not so common because there aren't so many people that speak English here. Immediately after introductions, I asked her if she was a high school student or a university student. She said she's taken university classes but hasn't finished. I asked why not, and she started to cry!
When I see this sculpture, it's strikingly obvious to me that it's a communist cow. However, The reoccurring answer I got when I asked Bulgarians what it was: "It's art. No one knows what it's supposed to be." According to the artist, it's the lunar landing module. Over a dinner conversation we were dicussing different funny idioms. I was explaining "spits or swallows" and the gal there said, "It depends if I'm hungry." The conversation went on to discuss chemicals in the water making male frogs feminine and that must be why there are so many gay people now: it's something in the water. Somehow, the conversation shifted to NASA. I was asked if I knew that NASA spent more than one billion USD for the development of a space pen that could write in zero gravity? I didn't. My friend then went on to say that after the Cold War, the USA asked the Russians how they solved the zero gravity pen problem and they said, "We use the pencil."
I spent my last evening in Silistra, drinking with my landlord, Данчо Манчо – no other place I'd rather be. And as always, it was a ton of fun. As much as I try to describe how great my time is with the Peace Corps and in Bulgaria, I can never quite express exactly how I feel, or exactly how wonderful it's been. It makes me think of a phrase Данчо taught me that has become something of call for fun: Пиенето чисто, мацито голо. Literally, it means, clean drinks and naked ladies. The deeper meaning is: if you want to know the alcohol you're drinking, don't mix it with anything; and if you want to know your lady, you can't know her until she's naked. I find it awfully fitting for my Peace Corps experience in Bulgaria – you can't really know it unless you've been here and done it. While I can't bring home an adequate description of what these last few months have meant to me, I can bring home this glorious smile!
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